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September 05
尤利西斯夜游
六点多天蒙蒙亮,拿起琴搬上椅子,日记本及P2,走下海滩。面朝阴凉未醒的大海,复习久不碰的轮指。开始没有人,后来,左边和右边,偶尔经过一二晨起跑步或游水的游客。因为9月,都以中年以上夫妇为多。又见怪不怪地以英人为绝大多数。
喜欢陌生人们碰见都打招呼的好习惯。无论迎面还是背面、擦肩。
还喜欢有一次经过人来人往的一家咖啡馆和cabbie拥抱时,坐在门前的黑超男子冲着我们就说:“我就是喜欢看见人们彼此爱着。那才是生活。”
昨晚有点阴郁,cabbie遂带我驾车无目的夜游。经过柔和笔直的一段高速后,第三次到达英国年轻游客聚居的katamena。癫狂扑面。小小的村庄,英式酒馆、俱乐部一家挨一家,每一家的高分贝电子或摇滚,与BBC6台深夜版的变奏无异。见“cheesy chart music"的同时,也见“indie rock and roll”的幌子。迎面与侧根全是英腔小青年们,叫嚣,伸展荧光四肢,舞动;抬头,精致的公寓阳台,有Beatles年轻时发型的模样探出头来。陆离光影,味觉听觉视觉,怪兽与《尤利西斯》浮现。
然后听见一路的卡拉OK。有人唱着ABBA的《妈妈咪呀!》,有人死拼kaiser Chief。余音一落,满场跟上。
连食物也将英格兰搬到了希腊。fish n chips,印度菜。hohoho,还有满街的“公共游泳池”招牌。真是做足功课探究小英人心理习惯。只求稳妥:怕常年头顶细雨蒙蒙的孩子们,一下接受不了任逍遥的大海。
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